Patagonia had long been on my travel wish list, and this year I finally made it happen. What followed was an unforgettable 10-day journey through southern Chile—highlighted by the legendary W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park. It challenged me physically, moved me emotionally, and left me with memories I’ll carry for a lifetime.

This post is a personal recap of the trip, plus helpful tips and details in case Patagonia finds its way onto your own list someday.

First Stop: Santiago, Chile

My route to Patagonia took me through Santiago, Chile’s bustling capital. While I had originally hoped to connect through Buenos Aires (next time, Argentina!), Santiago gave me an unexpected and eye-opening experience. Amid widespread protests over inequality and rising living costs, I got a raw glimpse of the Chilean spirit—resilient, passionate, and proud.

To avoid the more chaotic areas, I explored the quieter corners of the city:

A peaceful stroll through Parque Quinta Normal
A stop at Museo de la Historia de los Derechos Humanos—timed perfectly with a live dance performance
A quick peek at Plaza de Armas, the city’s central square

Tip: If you're traveling during times of civil unrest, stay informed and flexible. And always opt for daytime exploration.

Stayed at: Hilton Garden Inn Airport – great for early flights, with a free shuttle and quick Uber access to the city center.
Dined at: Boragó – ranked among the world’s Top 50 restaurants. A minimalist space with mind-blowing Chilean flavors and beautifully artistic presentations.

Puerto Natales: Gateway to Torres del Paine

A short flight and scenic bus ride later, I arrived in Puerto Natales, a charming town filled with surprises. The town’s waterfront told two stories—one of gritty history, the other of serene beauty—with sculptures, swans, street art, and the snowcapped Andes as a backdrop.

Highlights:

Boat tour through Seno Última Esperanza fjord to glaciers Serrano and Balmaceda
Incredible wildlife: cormorants, sea lions, and even a condor (which I misidentified as a cormorant!)
Lunch on a local estancia—lamb, potatoes, pickled onions, and Chilean wine shared with fellow travelers from across the world

Stayed at: Hotel Boutique El Muelle – warm hospitality, great location, and secure luggage storage during the trek

Eats worth trying:

Mostacho (for hearty sandwiches)
Santolla (seafood in a stylish shipping container space)
La Disqueria (local charm and amazing seafood pasta)
Afternoon tea at Hostal Amerindia

The W Trek: 5 Days in the Heart of Patagonia

Organized through: Fantástico Sur (torresdelpaine.com) – a reliable and well-priced local company. I picked up all my vouchers, schedules, and even a free water bottle the day before departure in Puerto Natales.

Day 1 – Refugio Torre Central to Mirador Las Torres (20km)

Rain and snow greeted us as we hiked up toward the famous towers. We didn't see them at first—but the weather cleared just in time for a bonus sunset hike. Absolutely magical.

Stayed at: Refugio Torre Central
Meals: Warm, home-cooked fare and a welcome pisco sour. Mixed dorms, cozy common areas.

Day 2 – To Refugio Frances (14.6km)

An easy-going trail alongside glacier-fed lakes and mountains, with a glimpse of local gauchos on horseback.

Stayed at: Domes at Frances – shared bunks, fireplaces, and a more intimate vibe.
Evening: Travel stories and card games with new friends from Spain and the US.

Day 3 – Mirador Británico & Paine Grande (approx. 15km)

This was my favorite hike—snow, sun, wind, and dramatic views of the backside of Las Torres. The final descent to Lago Pehoé was stunning.

Stayed at: Camp Paine Grande – sturdy tents, a spacious dining hall, and the best sunrise of the trip.

Day 4 – Glacier Grey & Hanging Bridges (22km round-trip)

Moderate trail with icy views all around. The hanging bridges are a must—especially the second one with a dramatic drop and sweeping glacier views.

Stayed at: Refugio Grey – smaller and more social.

Thanksgiving dinner: Celebrated with fellow trekkers from around the world—one of the best turkey substitutes I've ever had.

Day 5 – Glacier Hike & Farewell Boat Ride

Started at 6:30am for an ice trek on Glacier Grey with Big Foot Adventures. Walking on the glacier with crampons, sipping fresh glacial water, and learning about climate change from our guides was a powerful finale.

Caught the catamaran back just in time—with Las Torres peeking out behind a rainbow. Nature knows how to say goodbye.

Back to Puerto Natales (Briefly)

Grabbed a quick bite and picked up my stored gear before heading to my last hotel.

Stayed at: Remota Hotel – gorgeous architecture, traditional design elements, and sweeping mountain views. Didn’t have time for the spa, but it’s worth booking for the experience alone.

Final Stop: Punta Arenas

A laid-back ending to the adventure.

Walked the waterfront and caught a glimpse of the local penguins (wish I had time for the full day tour to Magdalena Island!)
Visited the stunning Cementerio Municipal Sara Braun
Wrapped up at Mirador Cerro de la Cruz for one last panoramic view

Stayed at: Hostal Keikruk – clean, friendly, and homey with a little garden.

Ate at:

Café Tapiz (banana milk is a thing!)
La Chocolatta (churros + hot chocolate = yes)
La Marmita (don’t miss it—reserve if you can!)

Trip Essentials & Tips

Trip Length: 10 days
W Trek Duration: 5 days / 4 nights
Distance Hiked: ~89 km

Useful info:

Local tours: Fantástico Sur – torresdelpaine.com
Bus services: busbud.com, recorrido.cl
WiFi along trek: Paid service via paypal.austrointernet.com (limited zones)
Catamaran Schedule: Varies by season; check current times before your trip

Must-Pack Items:
Backpack rain cover, waterproof hiking shoes, layered clothing, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a deck of cards for evenings at the refugios.

Final Thoughts

This trip was everything I hoped it would be—raw, wild, humbling, and beautiful. Patagonia doesn’t just live up to the hype—it redefines it. If it's on your list, don’t wait. And when you go, take it all in, even the unexpected. Those moments often turn out to be the most memorable.

Chile - Patagonia